ROAD TRIP
Day 6, Part 2
Marfa, Texas
After an 8-hour drive and a run-in with a dirt devil, Rachel and I finally arrived in Marfa, Texas at 3:30pm, two and a half hours behind schedule. In our defense, we did lose an hour with the time change but I am not quite sure where the other hour and half went. We were both exhausted and starved (we had skipped lunch) but still SOOOO excited to explore this town.
Marfa, Texas was a last-minute addition to our overly ambitious itinerary. We had heard a bunch of great things about Marfa from very cool people a few weeks before our trip and thought maybe it was worth a stop?? It became a finalized addition to the itinerary the minute we found out there was a hotel there that offered teepees to sleep in!
A teepee = a must stop
(bottom pic by One Part Gypsy)
Cut to, the day we drove into Marfa..we pulled into a dusty little town in the middle of nowhere, checked into our hotel, signed a waiver acknowledging we were aware that wildlife could crawl into our teepee through open holes and dropped our bags quickly to set off to find food and explore Marfa. We drove around to ALL the recommended restaurants (4 of them) only to find out they were all closed. But why?? It was Tuesday at 4pm? We just couldn’t make sense of it.
In addition to everything being closed we also noticed that the streets were strangely empty. We roamed the streets looking for food feeling like we were in the twilight zone. We finally stumbled upon a little thrift store that was OPEN (shocker) and we decided to go in. After making a loop around the store (a quick one) we walked up to the lady behind the counter (imagine your grandmother wearing blue eye liner and smoking a camel) and asked…”pardon me, we happened to noticed that everything was closed and were wondering why?” In the friendliest voice possible.
She shot us one of the strangest looks I have ever been privy to (it actually gave me chills)- a mix between disgust (she looked us both up and down) and wonder (like we were aliens that recently landed in Marfa), cocked her head, furrowed her brows, crossed her arms and whispered…”I don’t know what you mean”
I mean, there isn’t really anywhere to go from there, right? Clearly, she was not the kinda woman you argued with, especially when you haven’t eaten all day. So, Rachel and I just looked at each other and walked out.
When we got back on the desolate street (to safety) we started laughing and then stopped, realizing we were still exhausted and starved and said, “Now what?”
In the distance we saw a hotel sign which seemed promising. Enter in El Paisano Hotel– the only food source open on a Tuesday at 5pm in Marfa. We crawled there. Sat down. Ordered two margarita’s and two burgers (it was a serious situation that only margarita’s and burgers could solve) and sat silently for a bit, taking in the scene. It was 5pm and 10 people, which seemed like most of the town started to trickle in to grab a drink and a bite.
When our waiter came back with our drinks we asked “So, why are all the restaurants and stores closed today?” he smiled and said, “well, most things are closed on Sundays, Mondays and Tuesday”, “But, Why?”, we asked. He looked at us, puzzled for a moment, and said, “I don’t really know”
Fair enough.
Marfa makes its own rules.
I guess I can get down with that. Wish I would have known though, because I would have found lunch along the way.
After our burger and Margarita’s, we drove around the little dusty, little town looking for something…anything to do. We stopped for a few pics in front of cool signs (I will say Marfa has got some cool signage), and retired back to our hotel, The El Cosmico, to work for the night.
I love the El Cosmico, by the way- such a cool model for a hotel! They offer converted airstream trailers, safari tents, camping tents and teepees as accommodations each and every one more unique than the next.
As you know, we choose a teepee…
and after I stuffed the holes that wildlife could possibly climb in through, with pillows, it was SUCH FUN!
Have you ever slept in a teepee?
If not, I think you should, it’s like camping but better. The one and only time I camped I had to sleep on the ground, with some hard rocks but this time I had a heated bed….waaaaay better. I still had to walk a mile in the middle of the night to pee and had to shower in a communal shower, but hey, you can’t win them all.
I’m not quite sure what I think about Marfa. It is one strange little town in the middle of nowhere. Am I happy we went? Yes. Am I going to go back (when things are open)? Maybe.
….
See Rachel’s take and more pics click here!
365til30: instagram @kate365, twitter, facebook
One Part Gypsy: instagram @onepartgypsy, twitter, facebook
365til30.com 
Hi Kate. Knee woke me up this early am in time for you to post. Reminds me of driving from LA to New Jersy in our big ole station wagon. It was just Rachel and I and we had some adventures on the way. No GPS just a big paper map and just a route we were following to get there. Rachel was maybe 8 at the time. Remember driving through someplace in Texas and it was probably a Sunday and could not find anyplace to eat. No where at all. So we kept on driving. Just temper it was dark and we were on some dark desolate road so. Maybe farm country somewhere and I really thought we had fallen into the twilight zone. Never to escape. Finally we came across some Mexican Restaurant in theiddle of nowhere and walked it. Definitely locals only type of place but very authentic. Don’t remember much else about that night but we would have eaten a shoe and to find human beings on this road. There were many other unusual side trips and unexpected stops on this trip. If I were a writer like you it probably would have made some interesting copy. By the way the teepee looks cool and remindse of the yurt at Jens Ojai yoga retreat and you also have to take a flashlight and walk to the bathroom at night. Your teepee must have had some spiritual aspects to it as the yurt does too. Enjoyed finally getting to read something from your trip. Thanks for sharing. Am excited to catch up. Look forward to more unexpected twists and turns along tbe way 🙂
Oops some serious IPhone typos above. The word “temper” where did that come fr along with other typos:)
I love this story! Being on the road ends up being such an adventure doesn’t it? I hope your knee starts to feel better soon!!!
I’ve been all over the USA, but never been to Texas! Your post has me inspired to add it to my list! I’m bookmarking this for my future travels! THX!
Oh NO! That’s a bummer. Yeah, when I have been to Marfa in the past, it’s usually for a few days and closer to the weekend. But, I have heard that it’s real real Quiet Times on Mondays & Tuesdays. It typically takes a couple days to get used to everyone’s ‘hours’. Oh well…at least you got to stay in a teepee 🙂
I know! I was so bummed! I think I will have to go back one day on a weekend to get the real Marfa experience:)
When we accidently passed through Marfa over the holidays we had the same problem. Everything was closed. We couldn’t find food! A popular food truck was loaded with people and we figured we’d found our answer… but sadly it was sold out. In the end we skipped town and got stuck at a fast food joint in another “city”. I still can’t quite wrap my head around Marfa. It’s such an oddity! That said, i’d totally go back just to stay in a teepee! What a fantastic discovery 🙂
I can’t believe you experienced the same thing! So strange right? Oh Marfa…:)
teepee!!! that’s next on my list. i have yurt checked off already! 😀
And yurt is next on my list!!! 🙂
I can recommend the yurts in Oregon… state parks along the coast have them. Excellent for camping during a road trip 🙂
Hilarious! I guess I was always there on a weekend. It is definitely off the beaten path, but it’s a shame about everything being closed. It really does have some great places to eat.
I know I was so excited to experience the great food!
that teepee is gorgeous. even though that town does seem like it is straight out of the twilight zone, i would totally go to sleep in a teepee. and to get one of those sweet ass marfa mugs.
You must go sleep in a teepee! Oh and yes one of those mugs came home with me:)
Ahhh, you traveled to the country of The Last Picture Show (1971). Nice to see the inside of the teepee. Too bad you ran into no-food-choices, but I imagine the quality of the beef in Texas is why people started eating it in the first place. I drove cross-country for the first time in Sept 2010 and we stumbled upon a B&B we liked the look of, and then a proprietor we loved the sound of, so we drove 35 miles out of our way and were not disappointed. It was the town of Luling in central Texas, home of largest annual watermelon seed-spitting contest, first stop on the Texas BBQ Trail, and we ate the best catfish and frogs’ legs. The restaurant was the only one open, the size of a warehouse, with salty, leathery waitresses that looked like they should have been on rollerskates, and the old folks walked in in their Sunday best. It was the Texas in the movies and we were in heaven on the set.
Your comment was better than my post! I loved the way you described your adventure:)
Park City, of all places, has a TON of stuff that stays closed on Sundays and Mondays this time of year… guess it’s the slow season! Well, at least the teepee looks awesome!
LOVED this story — definitely sounds like Marfa has a personality all its own.
🙂
Loved your story about Marfa. I love the Big Bend area. We have been there many times but I love riding there the most. I hope you can come back and spend some time in the area. Yes, the people out there are the greatest.
the LA hipster group Yacht is all over Marfa and living there believe….it may be coming LA-Texas….u don’t mention the weird lights….
I hope y’all made it out to see the “Marfa Lights”. Yes, they are real and … defy explanation. You just have to see them… The only problem about seeing the sights in the Big Bend area is that everything is spread out. About eating next time. Alpine just down the road… has some really good places to eat. They don’t roll up the sidewalks untill 6:00 or 7:00 there… It’s a college town…
cute 🙂
I love your pictures from the trip! Sounds like an adventure. I love your sense of humor, you definitely made me laugh hearing about your encounters.
Did you get to see the house where Giant was shot? Someone told me it was still there.
I looked for the GIANT house when I was last in Marfa. I was told by staff at El Paisano that the house had been torn down some time ago. I did find the long driveway that was featured in so many shots in the movie. It’s on the highway west of town.
I wish I would have seen that while I was there! I guess it will have to wait till next time!!
Fabulous post! Great travel bug yu have. Try my post on similar lines too. You’ll love it ❤
http://puplumages.wordpress.com/2010/07/18/safarnama-ii-blissful-nainital-himalaya-hotel/
love this! i’m a west texan and my husband and i visit marfa regularly! it is an interesting town, in the fact that you have to plan your schedule accordingly to the rest of the town since they keep odd hours. here’s a post i wrote about our experience. http://madisoncary.wordpress.com/2011/11/06/marfa/ hope you’ll give it another chance! they have a music festival july26-29th and we plan on going!
Did you happen to see the Marfa lights? They are the main attraction for that town.
Picture from the Blog Header, you looks like Scarlet Johansen…:)
Oh a teepee.. how fun is that..I’ll have to catch up on this road trip, or forward or something 🙂
Great pics too!
lynne
I love Marfa! Did you stay for the lights?
This looked like quite an adventure – how exciting! I’ve never been inside of a tepee, but now I think I just might have to figure out how I can find and have such a cool experience. Thanks for taking the time to share you stories and I look forward to reading many, many more of them.
cc:Keith
I used to work as a sales rep in West Texas. My favorite route was Marfa, Alpine and down into Big Bend. I spent countless hours parked on the side of the highway looking for the Marfa lights- which I never saw- ate in so many cool cafes in Alpine, and wondered how the whole world had not heard of this quirky beautiful area! Loved the post and it brought back the yearning to go back.
great stuff! thanks for sharing!
http://olicheldesign.wordpress.com/
Road trip… good food… ahhh… what can I say… good life!
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Marfa is a wonderful anachronism, a tektite in the Chiuhuahuan Desert of SW Texas, but it does take planning for food gathering. There is one great place for food 7 days a week 9-8. It’s The Get Go http://www.thegetgomarfa.com/ and it has everything from Castille Pure Soap to gourmet chocolate. Mmmmm…
That was most definitely one to write about. My husband and I travel quite a bit and we find that small towns have … nicely put…their own character. We have for several years planned a southern trip of Texas and Marfa has been on the list for us too. Can’t even remember why though. I think I remember there was supposed to be this PRADA display in the middle of nowhere near there. Anyway, I will remember don’t plan for Sunday, Monday, or Tuesday travel.
It is where the Prada display is! If you can make it happen you and your husband should most definitely make it out to Marfa…just plan it on a weekend:)
The stars at night are big and bright… 😀
You’re right…they are gorgeous!
Great Post – Great Photos – thanks for sharing! Congrats on being FP!
Thank you so much for your kind words!!
I LOVE this post, your story and photos were perfect! Thank you so much for sharing!
♥ Love and light ♥
~ Jennifer
Thank you so much Jennifer!!
I’ve been through Marfa several times, and I always end up buying something to eat at the only supermarket in town. They have a really nice little public library where you can use a computer as a guest. The real jewel in that part of the world is Big Bend.
hello, I am impressed you slept in a teepee (spelling? i have forgotten already, i was so in love with the photo of it) – i like to think there is a hole in the top you can see stars out of at night ( and a lace to tighten if rain comes). In Canberra there’s a young (genius) uni student – industrial design -from the ANU and he’s my personal hero of the year because he could no long afford the rent at his uni dorm so he ***built a teepee *** – his own design!!! on Lake Burley Griffin and lives (studies, everything) in there. Zen! And the local council (some clout , it is the national capital of Australia) sent him a letter (I guess the postie goes there, too) to say he couldn’t live there BUT… the local Aboriginal people said it’s their lake and the young man CAN STAY THERE. i LOVE THIS STORY (YOU SHOULD GOOGLE IT). THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE TEXAN STORY – I will follow your journey. Kerry (Newcastle, Australia)
Kerry, I LOVE that story!!! Thank you so much for sharing it with me:) I am also grateful to have you along for the journey!
he, talk to you soon (am working out the technical side of this!) thanks for the lovely pics.
Great article and pics. I love finding these sort of things, thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much!!
I wanna go to Marfa!!!! Looks like so much fun. http://www.geordiesgirl.com
Awsome!!!
“well, most things are closed on Sundays, Mondays and Tuesday”,
I bet you didn’t stayed for wendsday
hahahah…no:)
I love Marfa!!! I went on a road trip to Lake Balmorrhea which isn’t too far from there.. such a magical place 🙂
inspirational daily routine…..
Thank you!
That was really funny. You took a near disaster and made it into a comedy, bravo.
Thank you Ron 🙂
Wow, just stumbled on your blog via Freshly Pressed & LOVED this post! There are few things that could sell me on a desolate 10-person town, but that teepee would top the list. I love the way you told the story too 🙂
Aaannd I’m officially your newest follower!
Thank you so much Suzanne!! I’m so excited to have you as a reader!! 🙂
Did you get a chance to see the Marfa Lights? You didn’t mention them. If you pass through there again and stay a night, you MUST see the Marfa Lights!! Amazing little wonders!! My dad used to take us out there all the time when I was a kid to see them. Really neat and very mysterious!
We did not see the lights:( I am still bummed about it! But I will make it back there and plan to see them then. How cool that your dad used to take you there!
Marfa, like most of the Big Bend region of Texas, is a very spititual place and “The Marfa Lights” are a manifestation of that ancient mystical power. You didn’t mention seeing the lights but I do hope you saw them. That area was dominated for hundreds of years by the Indians and is still influenced by that spiritualism.
Sadly, we did not see the lights:( But I do plan to make another trip to Marfa at some point and will make a point to see the lights:) I’m sure they are incredible!!
This is so neat. How did you find out about Marfa?
A few weeks before we left on the road trip a few random people mentioned Marfa and after a little research we decided we should make it a stop! Especially after finding the teepee:)
I want to go!!!! My favourite film is “Fandango” and they have a scene in Marfa, apparently James Dean filmed Giant there too? Or so I’ve heard. Looks like a magically laid back place to be. Bit of a trek for me unfortunately though….. I may….. never….. make…. it…
It is where they filmed Giant! Such a funny little town:) If you can make it work you should definitely check it out!!
Maybe one day…. at the moment it’s expensive just to get from one side of my tiny city on a tiny island to the other; Let alone another continent hopping… but I will keep my fingers crossed…..
Unas imagenes muy divertidas…. 😀
i cant believe you girls stayed there! hilarious!!!;-)
We had the same experience! Fortunately, the sleepy little town seemed to wake up after 6 p.m. and we were able to find some much needed sustenance (read: wine). We did love our impossibly chic, minimalist motel and biking around from bar to bar but the town vibe on a Tuesday evening was beyond interesting!
Pure awesomeness…
I just wrote about Marfa on my blog yesterday!
http://eeshyourheartout.com/2012/04/30/prada-marfa/
I can’t wait to visit!
You didn’t even mention the Marfa Lights!!
Sounds like a great hotel. I would probably pick the converted airstream. Did you see the Marfa Lights? That is the whole reason I would like to go to Marfa, Texas. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marfa_lights
Looks like so much fun! Your pictures are so interesting! 🙂 I’ve always wanted to visit Marfa to see the lights!
Hey Ever hear of the Mysterious Marfa lights!
Mysterious lights appear in a field somewhere
in Marfa – I forget where it’s supposed to be, but
there was a case where a local brewery wanted
to call them Miller lights.
I did hear about the Marfa lights but sadly I did not see them! That’s a funny story about Miller Lights…haha
They wanted to trade mark the lights.
The Judge thought it was stupid.
what a beautiful blog i love it!!!
Wow thank you SO much!!! 🙂
I really dig the photos
Thank you!!!
I was in Austin this past weekend for the psych fest. My roommate and I hitch hiked out there from minneapolis. So amazing. I hope you have a great time in Austin me friend.
Thank you so much! I had an amazing time in Austin!!!
Howdy! 🙂 I grew up out that way and, I must say, the people and towns in far West Texas do live by their own rules. The more time I have spent in the city, (30 long years now), the more I miss my beautiful Terlingua. Maybe I’ll get back out there one day and make a few new rules of my own!
Happy Trails!
Congrats on being freshly pressed! When we lived in Texas, we always wanted to take a trip out there to see the lights, but the drive was just too long. Sorry you didn’t get to see them, but the teepee sounded cool. I admit, the possibility of wildlife (primarily the snakes and scorpions) would probably keep me from taking part in that experience.
Hahahha I’m glad you understand my fears about the wildlife:) Thank you so much for your comment!!
love the blog!! 😀
Too funny. I haven’t been there in a couple of decades. Nothing’s changed. Congrats on the freshly pressed.
Reblogged this on 8BIT.
Love it!
I just got home from my trip to Marfa this weekend… and we experienced the same confusion with the time zone. Not mountain, not central… Marfa time. After three tries I still couldn’t get a taco from Tacos del Norte. After trying to eat there on Sunday, and then another suggested taco place, both of which were closed, we found ourselves walking sheepishly around town looking for food. Our search ended at Pizza Foundation. And we waited an hour and a half for a slice of pizza. We were more confused and amused than anything else – unless that was just delirium.
Marfa is it’s very own thing and I love it! And the food, when you have it, is so, so good. I’ll be going back for the teepee and the hot springs and, please, a taco. I just suggest that someone makes a Marfa app that local eateries can alert when they open!
That’s HYSTERICAL!!! A Marfa app would be perfect!! I can’t believe you experienced the same exact thing as I did. Marfa is one funny little town:)
Totally agree!
Thank you Chloe!!
Your Welcome!
What a fun post!
Great colors! Always love pink.
How did you miss the lights?
🙂
Wayne
The problem with visiting 12 cities in 18 days is that you always miss something! 🙂
Aw ….. but, to miss the lights?
😉
At least you saw 12 cities!
We would love to post the 6th photo down at toemail if you do not mind? http://toemail.wordpress.com
As long as you link back to my blog that would be lovely!!!
It’s posted now. Thanks so much for participating in toemail – we really appreciate it!
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Thats so cool ! I have a friend in Marfa and I’ll have to add the teepee thang to my bucket list. Thanks Kate 🙂
Hi! What month did y’all go to Marfa? I’ve bwwn once in late February (Fri-Sat) and still most things were closed and we heard that there are “good” times to go there and not so good times. I still liked it and want to go back, I’m just not sure what month is good!